Black Walnut and Maple End Grain Cutting Board

Black-Walnut-&-Maple-end-grain-board

Black Walnut and hard rock Maple End Grain Cutting Board

I wanted to share with you a little bit of the process of making an end grain cutting board. I am making two boards using a combination of Black Walnut and hard rock Maple. These two woods will give a nice contract of color. The final size of each board will be 14″ x 20″ x 1-1/2″ thick.

The first step is to hand pick nice hardwood, preferably woods with nice grain, color, square, no splitting and no worm holes. If you purchased wood, let the wood acclimate to the conditions of your shop for a week before starting your project. Knowing the final size of the board allows you to calculate the total board feet of hardwood required to make the board. Keep in mind that there are numerous cuts and glue ups in the process. You need to account for all of the cuts as each cut on a table saw waste 1/8 of material.

Prepare your cuts for the best use of the hardwood and the design.  If you plan to use different types of woods, you may need more board feet of one wood verses the other based on your design. Since this board is primary Black Walnut, I will need more Black Walnut than Maple.

Plan your cuts based on final size of the board. Start by cutting the wood into strips. The size of the strips is determined based on the final design and size of the board. Glue all of the strips together in the sequence of your design, leaving the boards in the clamps for a minimum of 24 hours.

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The above photo shows the Black Walnut and Maple strips, this is the first glue up. After removing the glued strips from the clamps, both surfaces were sanded smooth to size per my design.

Next step was to cross cut the above boards into strips that are 1-5/8 wide, which will make a 1-5/8 thick board. The 1-5/9 thickness provides 1/8″ for flattening both surfaces and all the sanding. After cutting the strips, each piece is carefully placed in the proper sequence based on the design. Every other piece is the opposite of the last piece.  After each piece is in order, it is time for the second glue up.

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The above photo shows the second glue up of all of the strips that were cut to 1-5/8″. This will be the final design.

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In the above photo, after 24 hours, I removed the boards from the clamps. I then cut the board to size, 14 x 20 inch and started sanding the surface on all sides. The final thickness will be 1-1/2 inch. Once this is completed, I will cut finger pulls of each end and then sand them smooth. My sanding process starts at 120 grit up to the final grit of 300.

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The sanding took nearly an hour to go from 120 grit to 300 grit. They are looking good, flat on all surfaces and all sanded. Next step is to cut the finger pulls, then apply the final finish.

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The above photo shows the board after cutting the finger pulls, sanding the finger pulls and applying the final finish.

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Finished boards!

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Black-Walnut-&-Maple-end-grain-board

I hope you enjoyed my post!

 

 

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New Boards Made The Last Month

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Above: Black Walnut Board

I thought I would post today a few of the boards that I have made this month. There were a few more that I made but did not get a picture of them!

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Above: Ambrosia Maple, Cherry and Black Walnut

This one is 14 inch in diameter and has a lot of different grain character and colors, it’s stunning!

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Above: Black Walnut and Maple

Customer wanted a long board to place beside her range, 22 inches long and 6-1/2 inches wide.

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Above: Black Walnut and Maple end grain cutting board

Rachel was looking for a unique board that could take lot of use. See her picture below!

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The above photo was taken by Rachel, she is a wonderful cook, check out her Instagram page, @5280Meat

 

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Above: Black Walnut board with handle.

Check out Trina’s picture below of this board, round board and ice cream scoop! Trina is a wonderful cook, check out her Instagram page, @Paleo_Newbie_Recipes

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As a gift with every order I send a free tin of Wood Conditioner. My Wood Conditioner is homemade combining a mixture of food-grade mineral oil and pure food grade beeswax. It will help you maintain the finish on your boards, reviving, condition and help protect your boards from moisture and drying out.

Enjoy your afternoon!

 

 

 

Black Cherry Burl Slab

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A good customer called me a few weeks ago and described to me a new board that he wanted. He first said he wanted a unique board for his food photography, a board that no one else had, something really special and beautiful. Bob has ordered several times from me, so I knew as he described the board he was passionate about his food photography and his cooking. Bob is a wonderful chef and he post his food photography on his Instagram page, That_Paleo_Guy  

Before we hung up, my mission was to locate potential boards, take pictures and email to him. It wasn’t long before he had picked out the American Black Cherry Burl. This piece is a slab, live each with thick bark on all sides, which is exactly what Bob wanted.

After flattening and all the sanding, I applied half of the board with food grade mineral oil so that you could see the beautiful color transformation as the finish is applied.

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The pictures I sent Bob was unfinished but you could tell that the Cherry Burl slab had really beautiful birds eye figuring with crazy grain and beautiful buttery colors. This board has more character than most pieces, it is absolutely beautiful!

The above shows the finish board after I removed it from the food grade mineral oil bath. Once dried I applied my Wood Conditioner.

 

The photo below was taken by Bob last week!!!

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Maple & Paduak

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I started two end grain cutting boards last week, One was Maple and Cherry (left), the other was Maple and Pakauk (right). Paduak is an orange-red color wood from South America.

The Maple and Paduak boards is to the right, first glue-up. In this post I am going to show you the finishing process of the Maple and Padauk end grain board.

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The above picture shows the second glue-up for the final pattern.  It’s dry  and ready to go to the Jet belt sander to get it flat on both sides. This board will finish out at 10 inches wide, 16 inches long and 2 inches thick. Once flat I sanded all sides from 120 grit up to 600 grit.

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What looks like water is food grade mineral oil. After being in the food grade mineral oil bath for over an hour I removed it to let it air dry. I will let it dry over night before wiping it down with a cotton cloth.

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Another view of this board that shows the finger pull, I cut one on each side to make it easier to lift. This board was finished with  food grade mineral oil, then my wood conditioner that is a food grade mineral oil and food grade beeswax mixture.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black Walnut Rounds

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This afternoon a good friend and I cut 2 foot off of a Black Walnut log that is 17 inches in diameter and cut 10 Walnut rounds. Each round was cut 2-1/4 inch thick.

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I will store these in my shop, stacked with wooden spacers between each piece so that air is able to pass between them. I will rotate them serveral times a month until they are dry. Drying could take a long a 6 to 10 months.

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The color looks great on these and as they dry they will darken.

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They will make great cutting boards, serving boards, cheese boards or plate chargers! These will be available on my One of a Kind page once they are dry.  Below is a picture that shows how these can be used to serve your favorite food!

I hope you enjoy your weekend!

 

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The above photo was taken by Bob Bernotsky at That_Paleo_Guy

 

 

Hand Mirrors

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Many of you might think that all I make is cutting boards, serving boards, cheese boards, etc. but I also make hand mirrors too! I made 9 hand mirrors this week for customers, pictured above is a right hand and a left hand mirror made from Walnut. Walnut is by far the most popular wood for hand mirrors.

After sanding smooth, I then finish the hand mirrors with 4 coats of a hard, low gloss poly. The poly helps bring out the grain and protects the surface.

Enjoy your week!